pasticcini

Or at least that’s what the dictionary says. Muffins are pretty American, about as unlikely a find in Europe as brownies. But fresh blueberries were on sale (99 euro cents for 125 grams!) and I even found Italian-made bran cereal.

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The recipe is based on one from epicurious:

Mix together:
1 egg
1/4 c sunflower oil (instead of butter)
1/4 c milk

Others suggest using applesauce instead of all the oil, seems like a good idea. I also considered honey and reducing the sugar.

Mix together separately:
3/4 whole wheat flour
1/4 c sugar (i used less than half the amount called before because the bran cereal was sweetened)
1 t. baking powder (vanillized, as this is how it comes in Italy)
1/4 c bran cereal (i tried to crush it, but that was too tedious; as it was, it gave more crunchiness this way, as if I had put in sunflower seeds, which sounded good too, but i didn’t have any)

Combine the wet stuff into the dry stuff, fold in blueberries. Bake at ~218 C for ~20 min. I think my oven here is a bit too hot because I took them out just before the 20 min were up.

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We’d found muffin cups at the euro store. But no muffin tins anywhere… How does one make muffins without the tins? Bella brilliantly suggested doubling the papers, so we did and squeezed as many as we could into a small pan, but they still came out with some funky shapes.

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As a bonus, we had found a pastry tube at the 1 euro store too, and we wanted to try that out. I had left out some butter to eat with the muffins and when it softened I fluffed it up and it looked like frosting. And, wouldn’t you know, I had gotten some vanillized powdered sugar yesterday too, so we made icing and decorated them.

Now for a walk up the hill!

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Gnocchi!

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The people staying here last month left a bag of potatoes, so of course we must make gnocchi! My grandmother made this for us before I ever saw gnocchi on a menu. The first time I ordered it in a restaurant, I was surprised to see it and said, just like she did, “Gnawkey” — she was from Memphis (although her parents were both Italian immigrants). Now I know how to say it correctly, and I was pleased to find that I can make them just as well as she did! I found a recipe on epicurious. I don’t remember my grandmother putting parmesan in her dough, but maybe she did. I figured it certainly couldn’t hurt!

3 large (or several small) potatoes: boil until soft, then mash lightly. I started to peel mine before boiling them, then thought, why? I like the skin. So boiled them with their skin. When I started to mash them, the skin started coming off, so I removed the large pieces (and ate them). I added a little olive oil to the boiling water as well.

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Beat together:
1 large egg
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Add the egg to the potato and mix well. Then stir in
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

Knead in another cup of flour until you have soft dough. Don’t knead for more that 3 minutes.

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Divide into six pieces. Roll each piece into a long rope. Cute the rope into smallish 1″ pieces, then roll the small piece with your thumb to shape it.
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Use lots of flour to keep stuff from sticking! I boiled a pot of water with a half of a chicken bullion cube. Cook the gnocchi until they float to the top. They should be tender but firm (and tasty)!
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Unfortunately, my assistant didn’t chop enough tomatoes for the sauce, so it was mostly meat, which is ok, but it wasn’t as flavorful as last night’s. I had also added fresh basil and the remains of last night’s wine, along with the usual onion, garlic and balsamic vinegar.

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While eating I added more basil, and the secret ingredient, obtained from the balsamic vinegar factory we visited last summer.

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After dinner, I chopped up the remaining six tomatoes and cooked them with a little water and salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Added the left over meat and now it’s resting on the stove, and looking a lot more like spaghetti sauce!

nuoatare in Borgo a Mozzano

The town country club turned two of its tennis courts into 3 pools — a 30 meter lap pool and two small wading pools, one with a fountain. 6.50 euro each for the day until 7 pm. We were thinking we’d go to Bagni di Lucca today but when we saw the sign for this, we had to check it out. The lap pool was nearly empty so I was excited to do some swimming while bella could do whatever she wants. Not surprisingly, as soon as we got in the lap pool groups of kids decided to migrate there as well and stand around at the end of the lanes. Two boys started playing ball in the middle. I managed to still get a couple laps in before taking advantage of the sun and our lovely lawn chairs to take a nap.

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pompelmo

I love grapefruit, but even this seemed a bit odd. Bella insisted I should try it. So today for lunch (last night’s left-overs), I did. Not horrible… sort of like beer mixed with fresca, without the icky saccharine aftertaste. Not something I could drink everyday, it’s a bit too sweet and soda poppy for beer. But refreshing on hot day…

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Dinner in Italy

We arrived in Pieve di Cerreto Thursday evening — too late to go grocery shopping, so we had our usual first dinner at I Macelli. Excellent as always, we sat near a German couple from Erfurt who were camping all over Italy. They came to see the famous bridge and read about the excellent restaurant. They were having some trouble communicating with the waiters and asked what I was drinking — they called it Vino Tinto — I thought I’d heard that somewhere before, but couldn’t place it (Mexico, it turns out). I ordered them a mezzolitre di vino rosso and they were happy to start chatting with me. I’d been to Erfurt myself when I lived in Weimar for a month, so we talked about east germany, and driving around the US. Last year they camped all over southern california, utah and the grand canyon. We spoke german, which i then had to translate into English for Bella, while speaking italian to the waiters. Isabella was impressed by Andrew’s kids’ bilingualism and decided that she wanted to speak more Russian, so I had render everything in Russian as well. Hard enough as it is, but good thing I had my mezzolitre di vino rossi to help out!

For Friday’s dinner, we made it to the grocery store. One of the nice things about Italy is that food is cheap! Like it was in the central valley when I was a kid. As much as I love the Bay Area and Boston, the food prices there are always shocking to me. Tonight I made 100% semolina pasta. It turned out amazingly light and delicious. The best I’ve made so far! I also managed to roll it out quite thin, but because I didn’t have a machine, it didn’t get over rolled at all, and I think that helped.

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For sauce, I toasted several cloves of chopped garlic in olive oil, added some chopped red onion, four chopped roma tomatoes, dried rosemary (from the garden), sage, oregano and basil, and black pepper, with a few splashes of balsamic vinegar. Let that cook down for a while, until everything is soft and gooey. I also marinated some stracchino in olive oil and balsamic, and threw that on top of the pasta, along with the requisite parmesan cheese. And some prosciutto toscana e melone to munch along with it.

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first stop basel

We took the train to italy from frankfurt, but had to change in Basel, so figured I’d drop in on my friend Andrew. We hadn’t seen each other in 15 years, since the last time I was in Berlin, 1993. We didn’t end up seeing much of Basel, but we had fun with Anrew, Andrea and their three kids. Tuesday night we saw a band play in the river. Wednesday we went swimming at a fabulous sports complex — three big pools with high dives and water slides. The first part of the day had been blistering hot, but when we got to the pools, it started to rain. Even with thunder and lightning, Bella had no desire to leave. The day cooled off considerably and we headed back to make dinner. Bella, Miles and I had a bit of ping pong competition as well.

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airport to trainstation

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purple seats on singapore air

This trip to italy starts on singapore air from jfk to fra, though bella had just arrived on aeroflot from her 10-day black sea trip with her dad. Two atlantic crossings in one day for her!

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Off to Italy for the summer

Bella and I will be in Europe from 29 July – 18 Aug, with most of the time spent in Pieve di Cerreto. I think this trip I’ll get Bella enrolled in the same language course David and I took in Lucca. They have a class starting 4 Aug. We could take it for one or two weeks… If anyone’s interested in joining us, let me know!

corte della campana

Tonight we had our wine tasting class at La Corte dei vini. three very different white wines, and two excellent “little brother” tuscans, and we learned what the marketing term “super tuscan” means. this was our final bottle.

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